In order to know what the correct composition of an organic cosmetic product is, you must analyze the INCI list which will allow you to determine the true composition of the cosmetic product.
At Hyléria we take the time to explain everything to you.
INCI list: but what does it mean?
The term INCI stands for “International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.” It is an international language for describing the composition of a cosmetic product. This language uses the Latin or English names of raw materials. This list allows you to know which components are present in a cosmetic product (as in food).
When the ingredient is listed in Latin, it means it is a natural active ingredient. This is referred to as the botanical name of the component.
Let’s take the example of “Rose Centifolia” (widely used in perfumery): its INCI name in Latin is “Rosa Centifolia”, its botanical family is “Rosaceae.”
Conversely, those in English indicate that these are non-natural ingredients, here is an example: you have surely already seen on your cosmetic products or perfumes an ingredient called “Vanillin” which means “Vanillin” in French. “Vanillin” is substituted by “Vanilla” which is a natural ingredient.
How do you read an INCI list?
First of all, an INCI list is located on the back or on the packaging of the product and reads like a book.
The ingredients present in the greatest quantity are listed first: generally, we find the term “aqua” (water in Latin) which represents approximately 80% of the cosmetic formula.
You should know that it is the first 3 to 5 cosmetic ingredients that will have the power to make the cosmetic formula effective.
Conversely, those present in small quantities are at the end of the list.
Additionally, assets are listed in descending order (largest to smallest) if they constitute more than 1% of the formula.
INCI Beauty: a tool for identifying harmful ingredients
Do you have any doubts about an ingredient present in a cosmetic product? Do you want to know how to identify it?
For this, there is a tool that allows you to detect the harmfulness of an ingredient: INCI Beauty . You type the name of the active ingredient, this tool will tell you if it is harmful or not.
What is the composition of an organic cosmetic?
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Water: “Aqua” is the most commonly used ingredient in cosmetics, and is at the top of the list. It will be spring water that will be used or a floral water such as “Rosa Damascena Flower water”.
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Plant extracts: plant extracts are used for their active ingredients with interesting properties (softening, antioxidant, moisturizing, etc.). They are easily recognizable and have the word “extract” at the end of their Latin name: “ Aloe Barbadensis leaf extract”: Aloe leaf extract.
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Oils: of plant origin, are used for their benefits and are recognizable by the name “oil”: “Persea Gratissima oil”: Avocado oil.
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Alcohols: used for their preservative properties. We find them under the following names: “Alcohol denat” for denatured alcohol and “-yl alcohol” for fatty alcohol: “Cetyl alcohol”: Cetyl alcohol.
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Preservatives : Their role is to preserve the cosmetic product to avoid contamination. In organic cosmetics, only five preservatives are authorized, such as benzoic acid.
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Fragrances: Used to give a pleasant scent to the product. These are essential oils: “ Lavandula Angustifolia oil”: Lavender essential oil.
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Natural and organic ingredients: in the list of ingredients of a certified cosmetic product, the raw materials are of natural or organic origin.
But what are the differences with conventional technology?
Indeed, most brands claiming to be natural cosmetics avoid many controversial active ingredients, such as those derived from petrochemicals. Formulators also try to choose each active ingredient for the benefits it can bring to the skin. Some replace water with floral waters, while others use essential oils instead of synthetic fragrances.
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The emulsion:
A cosmetic emulsion is a dispersion of one liquid in another. A distinction is made between the aqueous phase and the fatty phase. Since these are insoluble, surfactants (surface agents) such as sodium cocoyl isethionate (a fatty acid from coconut oil) or thickeners such as carrageenan gum from red marine algae must be added to make them homogeneous.
In conventional cosmetics: Water is distilled water, which has no particular properties. The oil will in most cases be a mineral oil derived from petrochemical waste such as paraffin oil (“paraffinum liquidum”) or silicones (“dimethicone”), for reasons of simplicity of manufacture and cost. Mineral oil forms a protective film on the surface of the skin, but does not provide any real benefits.
In organic cosmetics : The water will generally be spring water or floral water (rose water, lavender water, orange blossom water, etc.), full of active ingredients and benefits for the skin. The oils will be vegetable oils (jojoba, argan, avocado, olive, almond, etc.) which are naturally rich in fatty acids, vitamins and trace elements similar to those of the skin, which means they have excellent affinity with our body.-
The emulsifier:
An emulsifier is an ingredient that will promote the formation of stable emulsions.
In conventional cosmetics : They are of synthetic origin and are most often called PEGs (glycols). Generally derived from petroleum, they can be very aggressive for our skin and extremely polluting: “polyethylene glycol”.
In organic cosmetics : Emulsifiers are of natural, plant-based origin, such as sugar esters from beetroot or soy lecithin. They allow for textures that penetrate easily and also soften the skin.
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Preservatives or antioxidants:
They help preserve the ingredients of the cosmetic product, such as bacteria.
In conventional cosmetics: These are parabens (“methylparaben”), triclosan, formaldehydes (banned in Europe) or even phenoxyethanol...irritating and allergenic components.
In organic cosmetics: The preservatives used are part of a list authorized by organic labels. Preservation is generally achieved by using natural alcohol and/or essential oils with antibacterial properties, such as lemon. Organic product manufacturers can also use effective solutions such as particularly rigorous manufacturing conditions, "airless" packaging, or the choice of pump bottles rather than jars.-
The perfume:
Of synthetic origin in conventional cosmetics.
On the other hand, the INCI list does not allow us to know the origin of the raw materials, the manufacturing method or the exact quantities present in the cosmetic. At Hyléria , we have opted for made in France as well as active ingredients of nearby origin .
