We hear a lot about hyaluronic acid. This ingredient has become the star of facial skincare for its hydrating power. But as with everything, you have to look beyond the label: its quality and therefore its effectiveness can vary. Its method of administration too: Topical application or injection, which should you choose? We'll help you see things more clearly.
Hyaluronic acid: a molecule already present in our body
Hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally present in our tissues, at a level of 50 to 70% depending on the depth of the skin layers. It is an essential component of the dermis and epidermis.
Hyaluronic acid's role is to maintain hydration in the different layers of the skin. Its greatest talent is to capture water: it fills intercellular spaces and is responsible for skin plumpness and a fresh complexion.
With aging, the synthesis and quality of this component decrease, leading to a loss of firmness, elasticity, and weakening of the skin. This is when the first wrinkles appear. Around the age of 50, the amount of hyaluronic acid present in the skin is halved.
An exceptional moisturizer
Hyaluronic acid is capable of retaining up to 1,000 times its weight in water. This makes this acid a cosmetic active ingredient prized for its moisturizing properties: it hydrates the skin both on the surface and deep down. It is also a fabulous humectant: it attracts water from the deep layers of the skin (the dermis) to the superficial layers of the skin (the epidermis) for a plumping effect and thus smoothing wrinkles.
Hyaluronic acid is considered the anti-aging molecule par excellence: its main action is to fight against skin dehydration and thus reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
Using hyaluronic acid therefore allows for continuous hydration of the skin, throughout the day. Hydration is the first step in preserving your skin, and the progressive action of hyaluronic acid will therefore help preserve your beauty capital.
The surprising origins of hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is originally obtained by extracting rooster combs (obtained cheaply as recycled slaughterhouse waste ), after grinding, following chemical treatment and purification.
With animal-derived active ingredients becoming increasingly controversial, hyaluronic acid derived through bacterial fermentation is now much more common: hyaluronic acid filaments are synthesized by bacteria programmed for this purpose. This reduces the risk of contamination by viral impurities or endotoxins .
Some plants rich in magnesium and antioxidants can also synthesize hyaluronic acid. It is most often obtained by fermenting wheat or oats, but also from kiwi, carrots, tomatoes, citrus fruits, sweet potatoes, red fruits, and certain aromatic herbs such as mint, coriander, parsley, basil, or thyme!
What are the differences between hyaluronic acid in creams and hyaluronic acid injections?
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Hyaluronic acid injections
Hyaluronic acid injections are a cosmetic procedure used to reduce wrinkles. Because injections penetrate deeper than creams, they provide semi-permanent results (lasting 4 to 6 months). They are used to reshape facial contours or reduce expression lines, such as frown lines or crow's feet.
However, creams can work together to keep skin supple and hydrated.
The process is simple: hyaluronic acid is injected into the skin at the level of fine lines, plumping and stimulating collagen. This action restores the skin's components, helping it regain firmness and elasticity. The first effects of firmness and filled wrinkles are visible immediately.
On the other hand, if the injections are not repeated, the skin loses elasticity and firmness, and wrinkles reappear. This is why it is necessary to use a moisturizer after hyaluronic acid injections to seal in the hydration.
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Hyaluronic acid in creams
The hyaluronic acid in creams is not quite the same as the one used for injections, but almost!
The injections contain a cross-linked version, meaning the hyaluronic acid is made up of a series of molecules linked together. Thanks to its longer molecular chains and deeper injection, this hyaluronic acid can achieve results that can last for several months.
In creams, it is a non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid , meaning that the molecules are not linked together. This freedom of movement of the molecules allows for better penetration of the product deep into the skin.
In cosmetics, sodium hyaluronate (salt of hyaluronic acid) is commonly used because it is easier to formulate while retaining the same properties.
Cross-linked or non-cross-linked, which is the best option for facial care?
Both cross-linked and non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid work at a very low percentage (0.01%).
Hyaluronic acid, which has a high molecular weight (greater than 1000 Kdalton), is less effective when applied to the skin than low molecular weight hyaluronic acid because it penetrates less well. However, it helps create a protective film on the skin's surface against external aggressions and water loss over long periods of time.
Thanks to the free movement of its molecules, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is more effective when applied to the skin because it penetrates better and thus ensures better hydration in the short term, for a super plumping, restorative and anti-aging effect. Studies have shown that the smaller the molecule, the deeper the penetration with a remarkable action on wrinkles and firmness. It also refines skin texture and helps tissue cohesion for an anti-aging effect.
What are the effectiveness, failures and side effects of hyaluronic acid?
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The efficiencies
Hyaluronic acid is excellent for the skin, but not only that!
It relieves joint pain by surrounding the joints with water and contributes to the healing process. It offers natural protection against external aggressions such as pollution, stress, UV rays, etc., and finally, it strengthens the intestinal microbiota.
Hyaluronic acid has long been used in cosmetic products such as creams and serums aimed at reducing wrinkles.
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Failures and side effects
Aesthetic medicine has often used hyaluronic acid in injections, without mentioning the side effects that it can cause when the injections are poorly performed: appearance of cutaneous or subcutaneous irregularities, tissue necrosis induced by intravascular injections, risk of necrosis, blindness. Hyaluronic acid injections are therefore not to be taken lightly.
Hyaluronic acid can cause inflammation such as redness in the skin. Studies on skin explants with low molecular weight hyaluronic acids (less than 50 kdaltons) have shown that hyaluronic acid below 50 kdaltons causes inflammation and above 50 kdaltons has a restorative effect.
Hyaluronic acid can trigger reactions by enhancing the allergenic effect of other ingredients. This is known as the “osmotic pump” effect: hyaluronic acid increases the penetration rate of other ingredients in the cosmetic product, which can then irritate the skin and cause allergies.
Do not confuse hyaluronic acid injections with Botox injections.
Botox, or botulinum toxin, injections work by blocking the transmission between neurons and muscles, preventing the development of new wrinkles and reducing the appearance of existing expression lines.
Botulinum toxin injections are an anti-aging treatment used to prevent and combat the signs of aging. Their role is to reduce expression lines located in the upper part of the face: frown lines, those around the eye contour, and horizontal lines on the forehead. These injections must be performed every 6 months, with up to 10 injections required to achieve the desired results.
As with hyaluronic acid, the effect of Botox injections is temporary. If the injections are stopped, the treated muscle regains its function and the wrinkles return.
There is no hyaluronic acid in Hyléria products, here's why
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Prickly Pear Pulp: A Valuable Product
Extracted from the blades of the cactus, the pulp of the prickly pear is a real cosmetic treasure for its anti-aging properties.
This jelly traps water and nutrients to deliver them gradually to your skin, in order to protect it against external aggressions and allow long-term hydration.
Its exceptional ability to retain water and provide immediate hydration gives the pulp of the Prickly Pear the same moisturizing power as hyaluronic acid with the added benefit of regenerative, protective, healing and anti-irritation properties for the epidermis, dermis and hypodermis.
Thanks to its richness in polysaccharides of different molecular weights (30-40%), it manifests itself as a true plant hyaluronic acid with moisturizing and restorative properties.
Unlike hyaluronic acid, Prickly pear pulp is a pure natural active ingredient: it is not derived from biotechnology. It is 100% natural, vegan, and upcycled, since the jelly from the blades is recovered during the harvest of prickly pears, the edible fruits of the Opuntia.
The plant has numerous healing and anti-aging properties. It is used in various cosmetic creams: day cream, after-sun cream, anti-wrinkle cream, anti-stretch mark cream.
Thanks to all its properties and its richness in vitamins and minerals, prickly pear jelly acts as a real treasure against skin aging.
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The benefits of prickly pear for all skin types
Prickly pear jelly nourishes dry skin, reduces sebum in oily skin, and is ideal for mature skin thanks to its anti-aging power.
Thanks to all these properties, this jelly is suitable for all skin types and forms a protective barrier against external aggressions.
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For skin prone to aging
The pulp of the prickly pear contains components such as sterols, linoleic acid (polyunsaturated fatty acid of the omega 6 family) and vitamin E.
These antioxidants stop free radicals responsible for skin aging, which promotes skin regeneration and reduces skin aging.
Sterols also allow the hydrolipidic retention of the skin barrier, which will lead to the reduction of wrinkles on the skin.
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For dry skin
Applied regularly as part of a treatment, it deeply nourishes the skin. Rich in palmitic acid, it is highly emollient, which allows for continuous hydration of the skin.
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For oily, blemish-prone or combination skin
Young skin, being “problem skin”, is subject to many factors that can dry it out (lack of water, pollution, sun exposure).
In order to prevent excess sebum which would allow the skin to protect itself against these external factors, they therefore need to be hydrated regularly.
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For pregnant women
Also thanks to its high sterol content, L The pulp of the Prickly Pear has healing properties: it helps the skin to renew itself and reduce stretch marks, making it supple and soft.
As we have seen, the pulp of the Prickly Pear contains sterols, which helps to reduce acne thanks to regulated sebum production.
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For dull skin
The skin cannot fight oxidative stress (such as fatigue, for example) when it lacks water, which leads to dull skin.
With its revitalizing effect, the fatty acids in this jelly will restore radiance and tone to dull or tired complexions. The skin barrier is therefore strengthened, allowing the skin to defend itself against UV rays, pollution, and particles that affect its radiance.
At Hyléria, take care of your skin by using an active ingredient like the pulp of the Prickly Pear combining hydration and naturalness is essential.