The composition of a perfume

Want to pique your curiosity about a perfume's description? Hyléria reveals everything you need to know in this blog post.  

What is the olfactory pyramid?

The olfactory pyramid of a perfume is defined as a graphic representation of the different olfactory notes constituting the fragrance. 

These are classified into three categories: top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Top notes are the scents perceived immediately after applying the perfume, middle notes are those that develop after a few minutes, and base notes are the scents that linger over time. 

The differences between the 3 types of olfactory notes 

• Top notes: the first olfactory anchor  

The top notes are detected as soon as the perfume is applied to the skin or in the air. 

Top notes are called "volatile" because they are the lightest of the olfactory notes, meaning they tend to evaporate quickly unlike the middle and base notes. 

Top notes are often fresh and light, and can be used to create a pleasant and attractive first impression for the person smelling or wearing the perfume. 

Top notes are generally composed of citrus notes called “hesperides” (bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, orange) and “aromatic” notes (thyme, tarragon, rosemary, lavender, sage). 

You should know that the top notes are not made to last over time, they fade in a few minutes. 

This is why it is important not to rely solely on top notes when choosing a perfume, it is necessary to take into account the heart and base notes in order to have a complete idea of ​​what the perfume will give off throughout the day. 

• Heart notes: the character of the perfume  

The heart notes appear after the top notes; they are the “heart” of the olfactory composition, meaning they will bring personality to the perfume. 

They are heavier than top notes but less volatile than them, which means they dissipate more slowly and can last for a few hours, usually three to five hours. 

Heart notes are defined by floral, fruity or spicy notes (cardamom, cinnamon, clove) and are often used to give body and depth to the fragrance. 

In general, the middle notes of a perfume tend to be softer and more pleasant than the base notes, and they are often associated with positive emotions. such as joy, tenderness or romance. 

To summarize, heart notes are the key elements of a perfume's olfactory composition, causing the scent of the fragrance to evolve over time. 

• Base notes: the memory of perfume  

The olfactory elements present in the base notes are of capital importance in the creation of a perfume with character. 

Positioned at the base of the olfactory pyramid, these base notes give a unique personality to the perfume and convey its main message indelibly. 

Composed of deep raw materials, they leave a lasting olfactory imprint on the skin, thus establishing a solid base for the perfume. 

Unlike top or middle notes, base notes are less volatile and last longer. They are often referred to as "base notes" because they linger on the skin for several days. 

Base notes can be obtained from different raw materials such as: 

• Woody notes from vegetable oils such as sandalwood and birch, but also from plants such as vetiver and patchouli.  

• Oriental or amber notes such as cinnamon, nutmeg, benzoin (its essential oil is obtained by distillation of the resin of the aliboufier) ​​or even tonka bean (fruit from a tree containing coumarin, which has the smell of hay).  

• Gourmet facets such as vanilla, heliotropin ( synthetic molecule, existing naturally in small quantities in violet leaves).  

• Spices like cardamom, pepper or even ginger.  

• Animal notes such as indole (obtained by chemical synthesis , composed of floral, animal and musky notes) or ambergris (which comes from the sperm whale, which expels them naturally when it has eaten too many octopuses and squid. Carried by the currents, the amber stones will wash up on the coasts).  

• Musky notes such as “animal musk”: coming from the harvest of an animal, it was therefore banned. Today, musk is a “white musk” of synthetic origin.  

• Leather notes: The leather note comes from the essence of several trees, such as cade. The leather note doesn't come solely from tree bark: Labdanum (the resin from the leaves of the rockrose) and styrax (a Far Eastern shrub) also evoke a leathery scent.  

• Technical synthetic notes, such as cashmeran (a woody and musky synthetic product) or ambroxan (an artificial molecule obtained from sclareol, contained in sage essence).  

Diagram of the olfactory pyramid

What are the olfactory families? 

• The Hesperidean family

This family evokes citrus scents like bergamot , grapefruit, lemon.... 

These fragrances are obtained by extracting the zest of these citrus fruits. This is the oldest family, which is used in the creation of Eaux de Cologne: these notes can be combined with aromatic notes to bring more lightness and freshness to the Eaux de Cologne. 

These are very volatile and ephemeral, they bring flight as well as a sparkling opening at the top of a perfume composition. 

• The aromatic family  

Aromatic plants in perfumery: a tradition with refreshing notes? 

For centuries, aromatic plants (thyme, rosemary, tarragon, etc.) have been an essential ingredient in the creation of perfumes, especially in men's fragrances. 

These fresh and invigorating raw materials are used in the preparation of "Eaux de Cologne", appreciated for their freshness and invigorating scents. 

Among these plants, lavender is the flagship emblem in the aromatic family. 

Aromatic notes are increasingly used in men's eau de toilette in "sport" versions such as " Versace Pour Homme Eau Fraîche" and some women's creations such as "Tom Ford Black Orchid". 

•  The floral family

This family includes flowers in general, which can be subdivided into two categories: sweet flowers such as jasmine and ylang-ylang, and fresh flowers such as lily of the valley and lilac. 

This family is part of the heart notes, and brings great olfactory richness to feminine perfumery. 

Some flowers can develop animal notes like jasmine, green notes like galbanum resin, fruity notes like “Damask Rose,” which can have nuances of apple or raspberry, and powdery notes like iris. This is why there are a multitude of very varied compositions: from single-flower vases to floral bouquets. 

In short, the floral family in perfumery is a captivating olfactory symphony, celebrating the delicacy and splendor of nature. It offers fragrance lovers a true sensory escape, a journey. 

An example of an iconic perfume is “Chanel No. 5” composed of notes of rose , jasmine and ylang-ylang, combined with top notes of aldehydes, bergamot and lemon. 

• The Cyprus family  

Chypre perfumes are famous for their timeless elegance and attract the interest of perfume lovers around the world. 

Chypre fragrances are characterized by a harmonious balance between fresh citrus notes and warm notes of oakmoss, patchouli, or labdanum. This unique combination gives chypre fragrances an aura of sophistication and elegance. 

We can mention the “Miss Dior de Dior” composed of fresh notes of galbanum and bergamot with floral scents of jasmine, narcissus, neroli and rose. with oakmoss, patchouli and cistus labdanum.  

We can also mention the perfume “Coco Mademoiselle de Chanel” where orange and bergamot blend with notes of patchouli and vetiver.  

• The fern family 

This family is named after Guy de Maupassant's favorite perfume, “Fougère Royale,” composed of notes of lavender, bergamot, and geranium blended with sage and cinnamon with patchouli, oakmoss, tonka bean, coumarin, and amber.  

The fern family refers to a blend made from aromatic and sometimes spicy notes. The resulting scent is both full of vitality and freshness. 

These fragrances are inspired by the scents of nature, evoking fresh, woody landscapes. Traditionally, fougère fragrances combine fresh notes of citrus and lavender with earthy notes of oakmoss, vetiver, and patchouli. 

For a long time, Fougère was the benchmark in the men's fragrance market. However, it is tending to be overtaken by the woody fragrance family, which is increasingly popular among men . 

• The woody family  

The woody fragrance family takes its name from the aromatic essences of woods and trees. These captivating fragrances typically combine woody notes like cedar, sandalwood, or oakmoss with resinous notes like vetiver and spicy notes like cinnamon for a natural and refined olfactory experience. 

Fragrances in this category can also be combined with floral, fruity or aromatic notes for exceptional olfactory richness. 

These woody notes give the fragrance breadth and depth. The result is elegant, characterful scents associated with masculinity and maturity, and are increasingly present in women's perfumes. 

Round and sweet, the fragrance “Santal Majuscule” by Serge Lutens is composed mainly of sandalwood and spices like cinnamon. 

• The Amber Family  

Also known as the oriental family, this is the warmest and most sensual olfactory family. Its name comes from ambergris, which has been used in perfumery since the dawn of time. 

The scents in this family can blend sweet notes like vanilla with spicier notes like tonka bean. The result is a smooth and seductive accord that captivates the senses and takes you on a journey. 

The essential perfume belonging to the amber family is “Shalimar de Guerlain”: composed of flowers and bergamot, it will bring freshness but also a sensual symphony thanks to the Tonka Bean.  

To conclude; it is important to let the fragrance evolve on the skin in order to give you an idea of ​​how the scent of the perfume evolves: a perfume tested for a few minutes will not have the same scent as if you test it throughout the day.