How to successfully transition to natural cosmetics?

We explained the benefits of natural cosmetics compared to conventional cosmetics in our article Why choose natural cosmetics?

If you are transitioning to plant-based cosmetics, we are really happy!

But before you change your habits and get any surprises, here are some tips to help you make the right start.

1. How to choose truly natural care products

The craze surrounding natural cosmetics has led to some misconceptions. It is therefore important not to be misled by marketing claims.

Read the INCI list

To identify a natural product, consulting the INCI list remains the most reliable solution. Present on all cosmetic packaging, it lists the ingredients present in the formula, from the highest to the lowest active ingredients.

This decreasing classification allows us to assess the honesty of the communication surrounding a product: if the ingredients highlighted in the communication are at the end of the INCI list, then they are only present in very small quantities and may not have any effect on your skin.

INCI lists can be difficult to decipher. If you're not yet familiar with INCI language, certain applications can help you decipher them, such as Yuka, the most well-known, but also INCI Beauty, which specializes in cosmetics, and QuelCosmetic from the Que Choisir association.

The labels

Labels are also good indicators, although not all products can display them because the organizations that issue them charge a fee. The most widely used in Europe are EcoCert, Nature et Progrès, and Natrue.

At Hyléria, we develop natural and organic cosmetics. We comply with the Cosmos Organic label from Ecocert. This guarantees:

• At least 95% ingredients of natural origin
• At least 30% of these ingredients are from organic farming
• production and processing processes that respect the environment and human health
• the development of the concept of green chemistry
• responsible use of natural resources
• respect for biodiversity
• the absence of petrochemical ingredients (excluding authorized preservatives): parabens, phenoxyethanol, synthetic perfumes and colorants
• the absence of GMOs
• recyclable packaging

Once you've selected your new products, it's time to test the benefits of natural cosmetics on your skin! But be careful: the "rebound effect" shouldn't discourage you.

2. The purge phenomenon or “rebound effect”

Many conventional cosmetic products contain substances that occlusive to the skin. The most common are mineral oils. Stopping using them can cause the skin to bleed. It's not very pleasant, but it's inevitable, normal, and necessary.

Mineral oils, what are they?

Mineral oils are products of the petrochemical industry. They are obtained by distillation of coal, petroleum, or certain oil shales.

It is found everywhere, with varying degrees of purity: for lighting (oil lamps), as a mechanical lubricant (to grease machines), in food as food additives (for example E900, an anti-foaming, anti-caking and emulsifier), or finally in cosmetics.

It is obviously this last use that we will focus on.

How to spot them on the INCI?

Paraffin, Paraffinum liquidum, Cera microcrystallina, Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, ceresin, synthetic wax.

Why use mineral oils in cosmetics?

Mineral oils used in cosmetics are highly refined to achieve a pharmaceutical-grade purity. They are used to add texture and thickness to cosmetic emulsions. Perfectly stable, with no expiration date, no odor or taste, and inexpensive, they are easier to incorporate into a cosmetic formula than vegetable oils.

Completely inert, these components are very well tolerated by the skin and cause little or no skin reaction. They are therefore often included in the compositions of hypoallergenic products found in drugstores.

They are also very popular with brands because they provide a velvety feel, a sensation of softness and a smoothing “peach skin” effect at a very low cost.

Mineral oils are often used in protective cosmetic products because they are very occlusive, meaning they form a barrier on the surface of the skin to help retain its water or protect it from the cold.

This can also pose problems when you want to switch to natural cosmetics, but don't panic, we'll explain everything to you.

The purge phenomenon, a necessary evil

Prolonged use of products containing these occlusive agents results in two concomitant effects.

First of all, since mineral oils are occlusive and inert, the skin no longer has to create its own protection (sebum) and it gets used to not receiving active ingredients that stimulate its renewal.

Then, a barrier forms on the skin's surface that cannot disappear instantly. Mineral-based ingredients are not easily removed.

When you stop applying it, the occlusive barrier gradually deteriorates and the skin enters a purging phase that can last two to four weeks. This phenomenon is reinforced if the skin receives nutrients and natural active ingredients that it can assimilate and which stimulate cell regeneration.

Imperfections can then appear: irregularities in the skin texture, blackheads, inflammation, redness, mini-cysts... the skin gets rid of mineral residues and its own impurities.

Adopting a good skincare routine and being patient are the only solutions to this natural process.

Why we prefer natural oils

Despite their advantages, mineral oils and waxes can be completely replaced by their active and natural plant counterparts.

In fact, mineral oils do not provide any beneficial elements for the skin, unlike vegetable oils and waxes which are rich in vitamins, antioxidants and essential fatty acids.

Natural cosmetics thus provide the skin with elements that it knows how to metabolize, which is not the case with certain synthetic chemical substances that the body does not know how to eliminate and which risk accumulating in the organism.

3. Create your skincare routine

Adopting the right actions with the right care is the guarantee for better assimilation of nutrients by the skin.

At Hyléria, we advocate for simple routines tailored to your skin's needs. These daily routines are always organized around a few essential steps:

1. Cleanse: This is the first step because active ingredients are best absorbed on clean skin. Cleansing should be gentle and non-aggressive, even for oily skin that you might want to scrub.

2. Moisturize: preferably in the morning, to provide the skin with its water supply and to retain the water it already contains throughout the day.

3. Nourish: preferably in the evening, so that the skin has time to soak up nutrients while you sleep.

4. Adapt your skincare to your skin's needs: they can vary depending on the season (beware of cold, sun, and wind, which dehydrate) and your age. Serums can be used as a supplement to your routine occasionally or for extended periods.

5. Massage: to stimulate circulation and improve tone. And because these few minutes for yourself are so pleasant.

Now you know everything. If you have any questions about how to get started on your transition to natural cosmetics, don't hesitate to send us a message!