As you've probably noticed, natural cosmetics are booming. But what's behind this enthusiasm? Is it justified?
Natural cosmetics offer numerous advantages. From an efficacy standpoint, thanks in particular to green chemistry, they provide many benefits while being just as enjoyable to use as conventional cosmetics. But above all, using natural cosmetics means contributing to a commitment to less unsustainable consumption.
Here we explain the three main reasons that support our enthusiasm for natural skincare.
1. The quality of the ingredients and their absorption by the skin
First of all, a quick definition: a cosmetic product is considered "natural" when at least 95% of its ingredients are of natural origin, meaning derived from plants. This standard distinguishes them from "conventional" cosmetics, which may contain synthetic ingredients.
Conventional cosmetics can indeed incorporate ingredients derived from synthetic chemistry, such as mineral oils, which are petroleum derivatives. Some are well-known, like paraffin or petroleum jelly. In addition to being inexpensive, these oils are perfectly stable, making them very easy to incorporate into cosmetic formulations.
However, mineral oils and other petroleum-based ingredients such as fatty alcohols (methyl/propyl/caprylyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol) or silicones (those ending in -one or -oxane: dimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, etc.) are inert. They do not provide any beneficial elements for the skin, unlike vegetable oils, which are rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and essential fatty acids.
Natural cosmetics provide the skin with elements it can metabolize, unlike some synthetic chemicals that the body cannot eliminate, inevitably leading to problems. For those who wish to begin this transformation gently, discover our tips for successfully transitioning to natural cosmetics .
Synthetic chemistry has also developed molecules that raise serious health and safety concerns. This is the case for certain preservatives (the infamous parabens, BHT and BHA) which can be irritants and are accused of being endocrine disruptors. Unfortunately, they are not the only ones. Our understanding of active ingredients and their impact on our health and the environment evolves as science progresses.
To identify these synthetic agents, it's necessary to consult the INCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients). Found on all cosmetic packaging, it lists the ingredients present in the formula, from the highest to the lowest concentration. Note, however, that ingredients present at less than 1% can be listed in any order, at the manufacturer's discretion. Learn how to understand the INCI list. is essential to decipher what your products actually contain.
2. The precautionary principle
In France, cosmetics fall under the category of health products and are regulated by the Public Health Code. They are therefore continuously studied and tested to guarantee the highest level of product safety.
Two competent authorities are empowered to monitor them: the DGCCRF (Directorate General for Competition Policy, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Control) and the ANSM (National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products). Chemical substances declared to be highly carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic to reproduction (particularly endocrine disruptors) will be regularly banned from use in products due to their serious and long-term health effects.
Over the years, the EU has significantly reduced citizens' exposure to harmful chemicals and is constantly considering how to further strengthen consumer protection in light of new technical and scientific advances.
However, this remains insufficient. Indeed, we are not yet able to estimate the real impact of synthetic ingredients because it is extremely difficult to have a systemic and long-term view of what happens to these substances and their exact impact on our health.
This is especially concerning since many everyday products contain synthetic chemicals and can therefore produce a " cocktail effect." These substances, seemingly harmless individually, can become harmful to our health and the environment when mixed together.
While some synthetic cosmetic components still enjoy the benefit of the doubt, it is proven that the impact of the synthetic chemical industry has a very heavy ecological footprint.
3. The environmental challenge
Synthetic chemicals can be found in cosmetic products in solid or liquid form.
When in solid form, they are called micro or nano plastic particles, which are less than 5 millimeters in size. They are found, for example, in scrubs that use plastic beads as exfoliants because these are inexpensive and don't melt, or in makeup (those pretty glitter particles...). In liquid form, they include mineral oils, fatty alcohols, silicones, polymers, and solvents.
The ever-increasing use of solid and liquid plastics is a growing concern because these particles are not biodegradable. They accumulate everywhere in the environment and harm biodiversity. Today, the oceans are the most affected by this problem. Wildlife ingests micro- and nanoplastics, which accumulate in their bodies, potentially leading to lethal chemical toxicity. And let's not forget that at the end of the food chain, we consume seafood without being able to avoid this invisible pollution.
Synthetic components have a significant environmental impact. Their extraction and processing are more energy-intensive and polluting because they require more handling than their natural counterparts. Finally, their production necessitates the use of solvents and toxic gases derived from petrochemicals, which are harmful to wildlife and vegetation.
More and more players in the natural cosmetics industry are going beyond the purely formulary aspect and committing to a comprehensive approach for more responsible consumption.
This requires a complete reassessment of all aspects of the product to move away from the energy-intensive and polluting model of conventional cosmetics. It involves rethinking packaging, the choice of materials, and the supply chains for raw materials. You can find more information on the situation regarding plastic packaging in our article "Recycling: An Adequate Response to the Challenge?"
At HYLÉRIA, life sciences combine with nature through plant biotechnology. We explore this approach in our article on biotechnology in cosmetics. .
At Hyléria, we take the side of transparency by providing the best possible information on the origin of our products to allow you to make informed choices.