You've probably noticed that natural cosmetics are booming. But what's driving this craze? Is it justified?
Natural cosmetics indeed offer many advantages. From an effectiveness standpoint, thanks in particular to green chemistry, they provide numerous benefits while being as sensory as conventional cosmetics. But consuming natural cosmetics is, above all, contributing to a commitment to less unreasonable consumption.
Here we explain the three main reasons that support our enthusiasm for natural care.
1. The quality of the ingredients and their assimilation by the skin
First of all, a quick definition: a cosmetic product is considered "natural" when at least 95% of its ingredients are of natural origin, that is, derived from plants. This standard differentiates them from "conventional" cosmetics, which may contain synthetic ingredients.
Conventional cosmetics can indeed incorporate ingredients derived from synthetic chemistry, such as mineral oils, which are petroleum derivatives. Some are well-known, such as paraffin or petroleum jelly. In addition to being inexpensive, these oils are perfectly stable, which makes them very easy to integrate into a cosmetic formulation.
However, mineral oils and other petroleum-based ingredients such as fatty alcohols (Methyl / Propyl / Caprylyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol) or silicones (endings in -one or -oxane: dimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, etc.) are inert. They do not provide any beneficial elements for the skin, unlike vegetable oils, which are rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and essential fatty acids. Natural cosmetics therefore provide the skin with elements that it knows how to metabolize, which is not the case for certain synthetic chemicals that the body cannot eliminate, which inevitably causes problems. We explain how to successfully transition to natural skincare here.
Synthetic chemistry has also developed molecules that raise real health safety concerns. This is the case for certain preservatives (the famous parabens, BHT, and BHA), which can be irritating and are accused of being endocrine disruptors. Unfortunately, they are not the only ones. As science advances, knowledge about active ingredients and their impact on our health and the environment evolves.
To identify these synthetic agents, it's necessary to take a look at the INCI list (abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients). Present on all cosmetic packaging, it lists the ingredients present in the formula, from the highest to the lowest active ingredients. Note, however, that active ingredients with a concentration of less than 1% can be listed in any order, at the manufacturer's discretion.
2. The precautionary principle
In France, cosmetics are classified as health products and are regulated by the Public Health Code. They are therefore continually studied and tested to ensure the highest level of safety.
Two competent authorities are empowered to control them: the DGCCRF and the ANSM (National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products). Chemical substances declared to be high risk carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction (particularly endocrine disruptors) will be regularly banned from use in products due to their serious and long-term effects on health.
Over the years, the EU has significantly reduced citizens' exposure to harmful chemicals and is constantly considering how to further strengthen consumer protection in light of new technical and scientific advances.
Yet this remains insufficient. Indeed, we are not yet able to estimate the true impact of synthetic ingredients because it is extremely difficult to have a systemic and long-term vision of what happens to these substances and their exact impact on our health.
Especially since many everyday products contain synthetic chemicals and can thus produce a “ cocktail effect.” These substances, which appear harmless on their own, can become harmful to our health and the environment when mixed.
While some synthetic cosmetic components still enjoy the benefit of the doubt, it is clear that the impact of the synthetic chemical industry has a very heavy ecological impact.
3. The environmental issue
Synthetic chemicals can be found in cosmetic products in solid or liquid form.
When they are in solid form, they are called micro or nano plastic particles, which are less than 5 millimeters in size. They are found, for example, in scrubs that use plastic beads as an exfoliant because they are cheap and do not melt, or in makeup (the pretty glitter...). In liquid form, they are mineral oils, fatty alcohols, silicones, polymers, and solvents.
The constant increase in the use of solid and liquid plastics is an increasingly worrying issue because these particles are not biodegradable. They therefore accumulate throughout the environment and harm biodiversity. Today, the oceans are the most affected by this problem. Wildlife ingests micro and nanoplastics, which accumulate in their bodies, which can ultimately cause lethal chemical toxicity. Not to mention that at the end of the food chain, we consume seafood without it being possible to avoid this invisible pollution.
Synthetic components have a significant environmental impact. Their extraction and processing are more energy-intensive and polluting because they require more handling than their natural counterparts. Finally, their production requires the use of solvents and toxic gases from petrochemicals, which are dangerous for flora and fauna.
More and more players in the natural cosmetics sector are going beyond the purely formulative aspect and are engaging in a global approach for more responsible consumption.
This involves rethinking all aspects of the product to move away from the energy-intensive and polluting model of conventional cosmetics. This involves thinking about packaging, the choice of materials, and the choice of raw material supply chains. You will find more information on the situation regarding plastic packaging in our article , "Recycling: A Response That Meets the Challenge?"
At Hyléria, we take the side of transparency by providing as much information as possible about the origin of our products to allow you to make informed choices.