Does exfoliation seem like an unnecessary step in your facial routine? Are you unsure what differentiates one scrub from another?
AHA, BHA, PHA, grape seed, apricot kernel, sugar… how to choose the exfoliant that best suits your skin?
We explain how to choose an exfoliant suited to your skin type and how to incorporate it into your skincare routine for optimal effectiveness!
Exfoliate, yes, but why?
The skin is constantly renewing its cells, and this process leads to a buildup of dead skin. External elements, such as the sun or pollution, and skin aging slow down this renewal.
Exfoliating your skin deeply cleanses pores by removing dead skin cells and activates cell renewal by boosting blood microcirculation. This instantly brightens your complexion, softens, smooths, and refines your skin's texture, while improving the absorption of nutrients from your beauty routine. All in one step!
Indeed, clean, well-exfoliated skin better absorbs the active ingredients and nutrients provided by the other elements of your skincare routine. It's a good idea to apply a moisturizer after exfoliating so that the active ingredients in the cream complement the benefits of exfoliation. This is a key step for effectiveness.
Chemical or mechanical exfoliation?
Exfoliation "mechanically" removes dead cells from the skin's surface using tiny grains. Chemical peeling, on the other hand, dissolves the connections between cells so they detach more easily during cleansing.
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Mechanical scrubs : Exfoliation is done manually using a circular massage. The abrasive “small grains” rid the skin of dead cells. It is best to use a fine-grained scrub to gently cleanse the skin without damaging it and thus avoid overproduction of sebum on the face. “Coarse-grained” scrubs should be kept for the body. There are many exfoliating agents:
- Fruit pits and shells : Natural but not always very fine, these exfoliating agents have an irregular surface, which can cause micro-abrasions of the skin.
- Sugars: smoother, they can nevertheless melt on contact with water and therefore not ensure even exfoliation during massage
- Plastic microbeads : they persist in certain compositions but should be avoided at all costs because they do not dissolve and remain in our environment
- Sands and rock powders : At Hyléria, we particularly like these because they provide a smooth surface. Furthermore, some volcanic rocks, such as perlite, also have the added benefit of absorbing impurities!
Beyond the exfoliating agent, we'll also be interested in the composition of the scrub itself. Indeed, it's the active ingredients contained in the galenic that will determine the scrub's nutritional benefits for the skin.
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Chemical scrubs: referred to as peeling , chemical scrubs are composed of natural or synthetic acids. There are 3 main families, which are not suitable for all skin types:
- AHAs: Alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic, lactic, or mandelic acid. Water-soluble, AHAs act on the skin's surface and are therefore better suited to normal to dry skin due to their ability to stimulate skin hydration.
- BHAs : beta-hydroxy acids. The most commonly used is salicylic acid, usually in its synthetic form, but it is suspected of being an endocrine disruptor. Fat-soluble, BHAs penetrate deeper into the epidermis and are therefore better suited to normal to oily skin prone to imperfections.
- PHAs : Polyhydroxy acids, such as lactobionic acid (a lactose derivative). PHAs penetrate less deeply into the skin because their molecular chains are longer. They are therefore better suited for sensitive or irritated skin, prone to eczema or rosacea.
- Fruit enzymes : natural and gentler than AHAs and BHAs, they are better suited to sensitive skin
Like mechanical scrubs, peels should be used gently and with respect for your skin type, otherwise they can cause erythema, blemishes, or allergic reactions. Also, don't forget to apply sunscreen if you use acid exfoliants: they are photosensitizing and will therefore react with UV rays, causing spots or even burns.
The advantage of exfoliation is that it provides immediate results, unlike peels, which take longer to work. They also cause fewer interactions than chemical peels with other skincare products that may be part of your routine. Thanks to the massage, exfoliation also stimulates blood circulation in the face, which contributes to the radiance and tone of the skin. But be careful with the exfoliating agent used! It must be gentle and the grains must be fine with a regular surface to avoid micro-cuts.
The advantage of a mechanical scrub is also that you can adjust the amount of exfoliation by adapting your actions to your current needs. At Hyléria, we have developed the composition of our scrub so that it can also act as a mask, with little or no exfoliation, while retaining its purifying and moisturizing properties.
The scrub for all skin types
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Scrub for dry skin
Dry skin manifests as skin that wrinkles easily, has fine lines of dehydration and is prone to irritation.
Dry skin has a weak lipid barrier because it doesn't produce enough sebum. Using a suitable exfoliant every two weeks will promote sebum production and therefore reduce skin dryness.
It's best to choose a peel with AHAs, which moisturize and replenish lipids, or fruit acids if your skin is also sensitive. As always, when it comes to exfoliation, choose fine, even grains and rich formulations to soothe, nourish, and hydrate the skin, plumping it up and making it more toned.
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Scrub for normal to combination skin
Combination skin is defined by both dry skin on the cheeks and oily skin on the “T-zone” of the face, i.e. the forehead, nose and chin.
It is at the level of this “T zone” that there is an excess of sebum and conversely at the level of the cheeks, areas of dryness.
To achieve even skin, it is important to focus on the “T-zone” to cleanse the pores there, without drying out the rest of the face.
For normal to combination skin, it is recommended to exfoliate once or twice a week, depending on your needs and how you feel. Treatments with AHAs or cleansing and moisturizing ingredients are best, as they even out skin tone and maintain skin suppleness. Whether using a peel or a scrub, always exfoliate gently to avoid irritating the skin's surface and disrupting its natural balance. Finally, remember to moisturize your skin well after exfoliating to prevent it from drying out.
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Scrub for oily or blemish-prone skin
Skin with imperfections and a tendency to be oily produces more sebum and is sensitive to external aggressions: the pores being open, impurities penetrate them (pollution, dust) which leads to the appearance of comedones or blackheads.
Exfoliation will help remove dead skin cells but also dislodge impurities and unclog pores, thus reducing the appearance of imperfections.
BHA peels can be suitable thanks to their deep action, as well as antiseptic and sebum-regulating scrubs, such as those with clay for example, which will help to cleanse and mattify.
Contrary to popular belief, oily skin also needs hydration. So, just like other skin types, don't forget to moisturize after exfoliating to prevent shine from developing as a result of dryness.
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Scrub for sensitive skin
Sensitive skin tends to react easily to products, so it is important not to exfoliate the skin too often to avoid skin irritation.
If your skin is sensitive, you should choose gentle and soothing exfoliating treatments to relieve feelings of tightness and avoid any products containing irritating ingredients, such as alcohol or essential oils, for example.
To avoid further damaging the epidermis, choose an exfoliant suited to your skin type and do not exfoliate more than once a week. Peels containing PHAs or fruit enzymes seem to be better suited to sensitive and reactive skin. Granular exfoliants have the advantage of allowing you to adjust the intensity of the scrub by using gentle, circular movements. Always choose scrubs that contain soothing active ingredients. Finally, don't forget to follow the scrub with appropriate moisturizer to soothe and calm the skin.
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Scrub for skin prone to aging
Exfoliation helps stimulate cell regeneration, improves skin texture and brightness, and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Therefore, it is highly recommended to incorporate an exfoliant into your routine as your skin ages, especially one with a composition rich in moisturizing agents . It is therefore essential to choose an exfoliant that stimulates hydration and then apply a moisturizer to deeply nourish the epidermis.
As mature skin is thinner and therefore more fragile, choose a gentle exfoliant suited to your skin type and its current issues.
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Scrub for pregnant and breastfeeding women
During pregnancy, skin can be subject to changes due to hormonal fluctuations. It's therefore important to adapt your skincare routine to treat imperfections, soothe sensitive skin, and maintain hydrated, smooth, and toned skin.
But be careful to choose products with active ingredients that are compatible with pregnancy! So, be vigilant about the ingredients and avoid those that include essential oils, certain preservatives (like parabens and phenoxyethanol), BHA, retinol, and other vitamin A derivatives, which are suspected of being endocrine disruptors. For chemical peels, choose those with AHA or fruit acids, but in low doses to prevent irritation. And for scrubs, it's better to opt for gentle, natural exfoliants.
Mistakes to avoid when using a scrub
- Exfoliate sensitive areas: it is best to avoid the eye and lip area
- Exfoliating too often: This can irritate the skin and make it reactive
- Using products that are too abrasive: instead, choose a gentle product that is suited to your skin type.
- Do not rinse well: rinse the treatment thoroughly after use to avoid irritation, especially with chemical peels whose active ingredients are not visible.
- Do not moisturize your skin after exfoliation.
Exfoliation, whether with a scrub or a peel, is an important step in your skincare routine. It removes dead skin cells, unclogs pores, and restores vitality and radiance to the skin. But as with the other steps in your routine, choose yours based on your skin type! Don't forget hydration, the keystone of well-maintained skin.